Just PETS @ Northpoint Village Center

1410 Northpoint Village Center
Reston, VA 20194
 

 

Contents

Setting up an aquarium

Adding fish to an Existing Aquarium

Outdoor Ponds

Back to Tropical Fish

Home

 

   


 

Setting up an Aquarium

 

Location: The first requirement for the location of a fish tank is in an area that can support its weight. Water is very heavy, about 8 lbs a gallon.  For example, a 20 gallon tank weighs more than 160 pounds not including gravel or rocks. Once a place that can support such a weight is found, check that the location fills other requirements. The tank should be away from direct sunlight, which will encourage algal growth and can affect the water temperature. Avoid placing the tank near a window or door where drafts may cool the tank. Similarly, the tank should be clear of any heating units (stove, furnace) that will overheat the tank. The tank should be near electrical outlets and in a location where water changes can be easily made.

 

Equipment. You will need a glass or Plexiglas aquarium with a cover and light, a power filter - we recommend one with a bio-wheel, and an aquarium heater. You will also need a fish net and a bottle of de-chlorinator, some gravel and ornaments.  A vacuum siphon tube will help with maintenance. Finally you will need food to feed your fish. Our staff will help you with the selection. An extension cord with multiple outlets will also be useful. Take all these items home and carefully read the instructions on the packaging. Hang the filter on the back of your aquarium. Install the heater, but do not plug it in. Add about ½ inch of gravel to the tank and a few ornaments to your taste. If you are adding live plants, add them now.

Fill the aquarium with tap water from the faucet and add the amount of water conditioner that is specified on the bottle. Plug your filter into an electrical outlet and make sure it is functioning. Some filters need priming.

 

Aquarium heaters. Tropical fish must have an aquarium heater and a thermometer. Be sure to read all the instructions that come in the box with the heater. Do not plug in the heater until it is fully immersed in water. Adjust the aquarium heater until the temperature on the thermometer is between 78 and 80 degrees f. Don't make big adjustments. Make a small adjustment then check the thermometer when the pilot light turns off. Keep repeating this process until the temperature is between 78 and 80 degrees f. Always unplug your heater 10 minutes before you remove it from your aquarium. You should also unplug the heater whenever you work on your aquarium, and be sure to plug it back in after you finish.

 

First fish for warm water aquariums. Buy a small number of inexpensive fish like small Tetras, Barbs, or Zebra Danios.  They are hardy, active, and will usually do well in a new aquarium. Do not add more fish for five weeks. The fastest way to "cycle" a tank is to use some gravel or biological filter media from an established tank or use a nitrifying bacteria culture (like Eco-Start). Without adding any nitrifying bacteria, the cycling process can take anywhere from three to six weeks. After two to three days, fish and plant waste will cause the ammonia level to begin rising. As ammonia is converted to nitrite via Nitrosamines, ammonia levels begin to recede. Nitrite levels rise until a population of Nitrobacters is built up, which convert nitrites into nitrate. Nitrate levels rise until a water change is preformed.

Make the first water change (50%) after a week, and subsequent 20% changes every three days for the next two to three weeks.

Less hardy fish can be added after the tank has cycled; when ammonia and nitrite levels are nearly immeasurable or your fish look healthy, the water is crystal clear and smells clean.

 

More good fish for a warm water aquarium.  Here is a list of more healthy active fish that are compatible with each other. Gold danios, leopard danios, black skirt tetras, swordtails, mollies, platies, blue gouramis, gold gouramis, opaline gouramis, plecostomus catfish, and a red tail or rainbow shark. Tadpoles, ghost shrimp, mystery snails, and crabs are also compatible and add variety to an aquarium.

Be patient and go slow in adding fish. Get at most 3 new fish each week. Be careful not to add too many fish to your aquarium. A maximum of 1 inch of fish per gallon of water is a good rule of thumb for beginners. So by this rule, you'd keep 10 inches of fish in a 10 gallon aquarium; for example, five fish each 2" in length.

Over time your fish keeping skills may increase, and you'll be able to keep more than 1" of fish per gallon.

 

Gold Fish.  Gold fish do better at a cooler temperature. Room temperature in the 70's is fine if there are not rapid changes. You might not need a heater if you keep Gold Fish, but a heater is useful in keeping the temperature constant. If you want to breed Gold Fish, you will need to change temperatures in a seasonal manner.

 

Gold Fish Bowl.  A fish bowl is suitable for cool water fish if you are conscientious about 20% water changes each week. You will need a gravel bottom, but it must be vacuumed for each water change. Live plants help balance a bowl tank.

 

More good fish for a cool water aquarium. Fancy goldfish are available in many interesting shapes and beautiful colors. White clouds, crabs, ghost shrimp, tadpoles, aquatic snails, and live plants all do well in a cool water aquarium with goldfish, and all can eat the same food such as Tetrafin flakes.

 

Your fish need fresh water. Your fish can’t live forever in the same old water. Once a week remove 20% of the water from your aquarium and replace it with fresh, de-chlorinated tap water. The tap water flowing from faucets in this area contains chloramines which is a chemical that local water districts add to the tap water to reduce the amount of bacteria and other pathogens. This makes the water safe for humans to drink but dangerous for fish to live in. Always add de-chlorinator to the water you put in the aquarium. Don’t change more that 20% of the water in the aquarium at any one time. Printer Friendly Version  (Note: Your pop-up blocker needs to be off for this function to work.)


 

Introducing new fish to your existing aquarium:

Clean your fish's new home the day before you purchase your fish vacuuming the gravel with a siphon vacumn and removing 20% of the water. Replace the water with tap water treated with a de-chlorinator.I  If you have a pond, be sure the bottom of your pond is clean and free of debris.

 

Acclimate the new fish using the following procedure:

  • Feed your established fish just before you add the new fish. Well-fed fish are less aggressive than hungry fish.

  • Move the ornaments around in your aquarium so the landscape looks different to your established fish and they will not be so eager to defend their old territories. This will lessen the stress on the new fish and give them a more equal opportunity in your aquarium.

  • Keep the lights off in your aquarium for 12 to 24 hours after you've added new fish to allow the new fish to rest and recover from the trip. It is best to add new fish at night, if practical.

  • Remove three cups of water from the aquarium and reserve

  • Allow the bag of fish to "float" in the aquarium for 10-15 minutes before opening the bag to let some tank water enter. Wait a few minutes and let more tank water enter the bag. The process can be continued with more delicate species in order for more gradual acclimation. Net the fish and transfer them from the bag into the tank.Do not pour the bag water into the tank.  

  • Add the reserved water to top off.

It should not shock the new fish if the temperature or chemistry of the water in the bag is slightly different from the water in their new home, provided you have cleaned your aquarium, washed the gravel, and added fresh water on the previous day as described abovePrinter Friendly Version (Note: Your pop-up blocker needs to be off for this function to work.)

 


 

Outdoor Ponds

 

Equipment: Your pond probably comes with some instructions about how to install it. Carefully read and follow those instructions. Fill the pond with tap water from the faucet, add some water conditioner, and wait at least three days before adding any fish. You’ll also need some floating goldfish food such as Tetrafin flake fish food for small fish or tetra pond floating food sticks for large fish. Get an 8-inch fish net with a handle long enough to reach everywhere in your pond.

 

Pick a good place for your fish pond. You can put your pond almost anywhere, but not where a lot of leaves or other debris will fall into it. Or you could cover your pond with lath or screen available at home depot. Ponds use quite a bit of water, so it's convenient to put your pond near the plants in your yard and pump the old water from your pond on to the plants.

 

Good fish for ponds. You have three choices

· Fantails and orandas

· Pond comets

· Koi and butterfly koi

Fantails are less aggressive than pond comets and koi. If you prefer fantails, do not mix them with pond comets or koi. You can mix the pond comets with koi, but a good many koi keepers decline to do so because their koi are often worth much more than pond comets.

 

How to change water in your fish pond. Change 20% of the water in your pond at least once each week. Remove some old water from your pond and replace it with fresh tap water treated with de-chlorinator.  It is important that you do not change more that 20% of the water at a time. Know how much water your pond holds and measure what you take out. The water coming out of a pond is better for plants than the water going into a pond. So your pond won't really use much water; it will just borrow the water for a while before it goes on your plants.

If you have a pond that is below ground level, you should get a water pump and use it to remove the water from your pond. The inlet to your pump should have a screen so it won't suck up the fish. After you've removed 20% of the water, refill your pond with treated tap water.

 

How to clean your fish pond. You should have a 8" wide net with a handle long enough to reach all parts of your pond. Use the net to remove debris from the surface of the water and the bottom of your pond. Part of the natural cycle of your pond will be for organic matter to decompose, dissolve into the water, and be removed when you change water. So changing water is a very important part of the process of cleaning your pond.

How to feed fish in ponds. Feed only floating food that is specifically made to be eaten by fish in ponds. Food that sinks may cause problems. Start by giving your fish a small three finger pinch. After they've eaten all the floating particles, give them a little more. Continue giving them small pinches and watching them eat. Avoid leaving uneaten food in your pond. Any food that is uneaten after 10 minutes should be removed with your net.

If you have trouble with your pond, don't overreact and make too many changes to fast. This is a good way to turn trouble into much bigger trouble. So if your fish don't look right, or show unusual behavior, or you have a fish or two die, don't tear your pond apart. Just start making a 20% water change each day. You may want to add aquarium salt to your water and perhaps add quick cure.  Printer Friendly Version  (Note: Your pop-up blocker needs to be off for this function to work.)